If there’s one thing I’ve learned from the dynamic world of F&B, it’s that for better or for worse, food trends will come and go—but good old comfort food is here to stay. For restaurateur Carlo Alvarez, these nostalgic flavours invoke one cuisine in particular: American-Italian. It comes as no surprise, then, that his newest restaurant, Carlo’s, specialises in exactly that. 

At first glance, the menu reads like a time capsule of tried-and-true classics: Caesar salad, calamari, pepperoni pizza, even chicken parm and molten lava cake. “We want to take people back to their childhood,” Alvarez shares. But why the focus on American-Italian cuisine in particular? He remarks, “I just think that Filipinos, in general, absolutely love American culture. We naturally gravitate towards that kind of Italian food because I think that’s what we are more familiar with. Filipino pasta dishes aren’t like traditional Italian pasta; our spaghetti has hotdog, carbonara for us has cream—which is fine, in my opinion. I just want to be able to showcase that [American] version of Italian but at a speciality level.” 

I pulled Alvarez aside for an interview just before the team huddled to further fine-tune their operations before opening day. We sat at Izakaya Geronimo, his fashionable day-to-night Japanese hotspot right next door and got down to business. Together with Lui Clavano, Alvarez also runs Wagyu Studio, making Carlo’s the third restaurant in their growing portfolio. Restaurateurs Frank and Janica Lao (Gloria Maris, Choi Garden, Zus Coffee) have also joined Carlo’s as partners.

The restaurant will officially open to the public on April 24, but Carlo’s has been welcoming friends and family for a series of test runs, allowing them to refine their menus where needed before the big day. This has also fed the rumbling anticipation of curious onlookers eagerly waiting to book a seat.

The space was designed by JJ Acuña, the Hong Kong-based Filipino talent behind Bespoke Studio, and proudly showcases Filipino craftsmanship as everything is locally-built and custom for Carlo’s. “This is going to be his first speciality restaurant project in Manila,” Alvarez reveals. “With Carlo’s, we wanted to show that you can build something with quality, but not be so intimidating.” The two worked together to translate the Carlo’s experience through its interiors, crafting a space that is comfortable and inviting, yet feels special without taking itself too seriously.

I pulled Alvarez aside for an interview just before the team huddled to further fine-tune their operations before opening day. We sat at Izakaya Geronimo, his fashionable day-to-night Japanese hotspot right next door and got down to business. Together with Lui Clavano, Alvarez also runs Wagyu Studio, making Carlo’s the third restaurant in their growing portfolio. Restaurateurs Frank and Janica Lao (Gloria Maris, Choi Garden, Zus Coffee) have also joined Carlo’s as partners.

The restaurant will officially open to the public on April 24, but Carlo’s has been welcoming friends and family for a series of test runs, allowing them to refine their menus where needed before the big day. This has also fed the rumbling anticipation of curious onlookers eagerly waiting to book a seat.

Pushing past the hefty green door at Carlo’s, you’re greeted with a warm, playful atmosphere you may not expect from an American-Italian restaurant. The space was designed by JJ Acuña, the Hong Kong-based Filipino talent behind Bespoke Studio, and proudly showcases Filipino craftsmanship as everything is locally-built and custom for Carlo’s. “This is going to be his first speciality restaurant project in Manila,” Alvarez reveals. “With Carlo’s, we wanted to show that you can build something with quality, but not be so intimidating.” The two worked together to translate the Carlo’s experience through its interiors, crafting a space that is comfortable and inviting, yet feels special without taking itself too seriously. 

There are clear references to old-world restaurant design, from the romantic curtains trimmed in green and gold to the matching Victorian-style lampshades between the curved banquettes in the main dining space and even small touches like the gold-plated “Reserved” signs and menu holders. One might also recall an American diner, with its plaid-laden bar stools lining the counter, granting you front-row seats to their open kitchen. But what really brings Carlo’s to life are all the contemporary, if not quirky touches peppered throughout the restaurant.

Alvarez lends more than just his name to Carlo’s—all of the artworks, except for one, are from his own personal collection. “These are just things that used to be hung up in my room or elsewhere, and now I’ve found a home for them,” he says. The pieces he selected are all by New York-based artists, tipping his hat to the rich heritage of American-Italian cuisine.

You’ll also spot many Japanese influences in the restaurant, from the use of lighter-toned wood to the original Noguchi lamps in the back of the shop. “I have a very big interest in Japanese culture, and I’m also primarily half-based in Tokyo nowadays,” he explains. “JJ [Acuña] specifically wanted to be able to portray that side of me in his design while also trying to achieve that American retro diner, old New York-style restaurant [feel].” Lining the shelf is a fun collection of figurines, including Michelangelo (the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle) slinging a fresh hot pizza, a stack of Chili Tomato Cup Noodles souvenir pouches from their anniversary line, and a vintage clock referencing the iconic Lipovitan commercial. “It’s a very Japanese thing to have knickknacks hanging around here and there,” Alvarez expounds. “It just gives the space more character and keeps it interesting for guests because there’s always something to look at at every corner.”

The heart of Carlo’s, however, is pizza: hand-tossed, thin-crust, New York-style pizzas, 18” wide. Their spicy vodka pizza, drizzled with pesto and finished with fresh gratings of Parmigiano Reggiano, is set to be a fast hit and was once Alvarez’s favourite on the menu. “But ever since we started doing that new broccoli pizza, it’s become my [new] favourite,” he admits. Covered in roasted broccoli, mozzarella, karasumi, and Parmigiano Reggiano, the broccoli and bottarga pizza boasts a tantalising aroma and a salty, savoury, slightly nutty flavour unlike any other pizza. Those after pizzas-to-go can easily pop by the takeaway window, where they can pick up a box of their pie of choice—the full 18” or by the slice—complete with Carlo’s whimsical caricature. “We don’t want to be just looked at as like a dine-in place, we want to be looked at as a reliable brand for nights when you want to stay home and watch TV, or go bring something special to a party if you want to hang out with friends,” Alvarez divulges. ‘I think Carlo’s will work for any occasion.”

Stylish, inviting, and offering classic, uncomplicated dishes anyone can get behind, Carlo’s is set to be a seamless addition to the bustling BGC district. “I just want my guests to feel very comfortable—I don’t want them to feel like it’s a stuck-up, white tablecloth restaurant where they have to act formal or use a knife and fork,” Alvarez imparts. “I want people to dig in—to enjoy, laugh, have fun, be noisy, eat with your hands. Just use a napkin, who cares! Our place is solely just for comfort. We’re not going to judge.”

SOURCE: TATLER

“JJ [Acuña] specifically wanted to be able to portray that side of me in his design while also trying to achieve that American retro diner, old New York-style restaurant [feel].”